Over the last few years I have spoken with several bookers in New York, Miami, and Los Angeles
who work for some of the leading modeling agencies in the world (FORD,Elite,RED,IMG, and Major to name a few).
Being that I work to develop model's portfolios (test shoots) I wanted to know what is the
key deciding factors that an agency or client is looking for in a model's portfolio when deciding to hire or represent a model.
Now you must understand that their opinions are merely their opinions and are largely based upon
the region that they are in (New York is totally different then say Los Angeles).
This list does not include what they are physically looking
for when they meet a model but what they are looking for in the portfolio.
1. TEAR SHEETS are KING (or QUEEN if you will)
Clients want to see that your look has value to someone. Printed work in a magazine
(physical print magazine sorry online mags don't cut it) and published advertising work
says that you have a level of experience. A-List Top Professional working models in this
industry have a portfolio FILLED with print work. In case you don’t know what tear sheets are, they’re actual pages from magazines, brochures, or any other physical
published material that has your picture on it. Printing quality is usualy not as great a computer printed image. A
tear sheet shows how the picture was used in conjunction with the layout of the concept.
It shows how the image works with the graphics, type, other pictures, and with other elements on the page. While tear sheets don’t
really add anything to the quality of the portfolio, they do add the message of legitimacy and experience to the book.
It’s one thing to have a pretty picture of you in your book and quite another to have a pretty picture of you on the
cover of Vogue Magazine.
Don't trip so hard at first about not having tear sheets even the best model in the world, had to have her first shoot and at one time,
only had one photo in her portfolio.
2.So what if you are a newbe and don't have print or ads in your book?
well the next best thing is to work with professional photographers who shoot in that style.
There are many amazing fashion photographers who's style looks like you can rip their work
out of any major fashion magazine, heck most agencies and clients would just automatically assume
that the work was published because it looks so professional.
You want to work with photographers who can give your portfolio "WOW" factor.
You want to make certain that your images leave a imprint in their heads so that they remember you
long after you leave. It helps when you are booking a test shoot to work with photographers
who have a vision and direction. TEAM is uber important. Check to see the work of the photographer's
team. When you are paying a photographer's test rate make certain you review the work of
the makeup artist, hair stylist, or wardrobe stylist.
(WHEN RESEARCHING MAKE CERTAIN YOU DO SO IN A RESPECTFUL MANNER)
Ask questions. When you are paying top dollar for a result. you want to know that the team knows
exactly what you are looking for. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!
3. Everyone asked said that the portfolio can be the make or break deciding factor because it
shows the client what you are working with. They can tell how serious you are about the industry
based on the quality of the images placed in your book. If you come to a agency with a crappy book
that means they have to do more work. Say if you have the look they like but your book sucks, that means
you are going to get thrown right over into the "New Face" or "Develop" group of the agency. Which means
you are not really making them any money which in turns means they are not going to focus any extra attention on you.
Why would they? Heck you may even be costing them money lol.
4. So what should you have in your portfolio as a new model?
1. Amazing head shot, Full body shot (swim), fashion, commercial (smile), action.
The pictures in a model’s portfolio have two basic functions. The first is to impress the viewer and the second job is to inform the viewer. If your portfolio and the
pictures within can do these two things, then you’re way ahead of the competition.
Wow, should be what you're after. The presentation and the shots should all work together to make a great first, second, and third impression. If you want to be taken seriously as a model, your portfolio should shout that you are a professional. The case should be clean, the pages of the book should be in good shape (they tend to scratch) and the contents should be first rate.
Show only your very best
Always start off you portfolio with your strongest image and end with your second best.
In between, have only your best images possible.
The Must-Have's
The tight headshots let viewers know what your face really looks like. They should know from these shots the length of your
hair, the color of your eyes, and the shape of your face. Agencies tend to love a strong head shot that showcases your best facial feature, great eye contact or a bright beautiful smile.
The waist up shot is a very important addition to a model’s portfolio. The crop on a waist-up shot is close enough so that the viewer can get a good look at the face and still see much of the model’s body too.
A shot where the model show’s off her body.Probably the best outfit for at least one of your full-length shots should be a bathing suit. In a body shot, the viewer can see exactly what they’re hiring. Remember that really skinny or really busty, are not always good things. You are what you are, and somewhere, somebody needs a body just like yours. Another reason for having several full-length shots is to show how well clothes “hang” on your body. If the project is for a clothing or fashion-related client, this will be very important in their determination of which model they ultimately hire.
5.So if you’re going to include tear sheets in your portfolio, then you’ll have all kinds of shapes and sizes in it. If you’re going to have prints, you need to decide what size. Of course, the case / book will either dictate the size of the prints or the print size will dictate the size of the portfolio. Somewhere, you’ll have to make the decision on sizes.
Most model portfolios that I’ve seen have been for 8.5 x 11 prints and some have been for 11x14 prints. The vast majority were 8.5 by 11.
6.How many images should you have in your portfolio?
Well each agency is different and there is no real right or wrong when it comes to this. Just make certain that
you keep the quality level very high. Stay away from playing politics by adding awful images to your port just
because they are new or so you don't piss the photographer off. THIS IS YOUR CAREER!!!
By having more, rather that less, you are telling the viewer that you are experienced.
Having more pictures will also give you the chance to show more variety and versatility.
The ideal number of photos / tear sheets should probably be somewhere between 12 – 24.
7. Remember it is not about having tons of different photographers work in your book. As with all things quality over quantity
it is best to work with a couple of really GREAT photographers to build your book rather then 20 "so so" photographers off of some random
"model networking" site. Just make sure that the few photographers give you range and versatility.
Things to steer clear of:
-Over the top artistic shots
-pornographic themed shots
-overly retouched images
-low resolution images
-images with other models of the same sex (do you really want them to ask about the girl/guy next to you on the photo?
-too many images with looks that don't reflect your current look (hair color/hair cut)
